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Exaltation, zest and history :
Trabzon
Some cities are remarkable for their histories, some for their geographic beauty or the richness of their cuisine... And still others are notable for their people’s idiosyncratic manner. However, there are some rare places which are remarkable for all these reasons, which leave a deep impression with their every aspect, as in the main characters in a novel. Trabzon is one such place... This city has an idiosyncratic, colorful tapestry with a history extending 4,000 years into the past, natural beauties born of breathtaking forests and lakes, dishes one more zesty than the next, and an exhilarating people straight from the pages of warrior legends. THE CITY BORN FROM THE SEATrabzon, albeit being nestled between the Black Sea and mountains with no passes, because of its having been influenced by different cultures and its being an important seaport at the doorway of the historical Silk Road, is considerably affluent in every aspect in terms of culture. It takes this affluence from its strategic position in the region and its deep rooted past.. The establishment of the city extends back to the 2000s B.C. Trabzon is older than Rome or Istanbul. The city, which was established by the Mars, Tibarens and Mosks who came to the region from Central Asia and Caucasia, began to gain greater importance after 750 B.C. The “Free City Era,” when trade life here was enriched by the setting off of the Miletans from the Aegean coasts and coming to Trabzon continued until the city came under the rule of Rome in the 1st century A.D. Trabzon had become an important seaport and protected its free city privileges also during the Roman era. It became an even larger trade city because the port named Bella Castron, which the Roman Emperor Hadrianus had built by carving out the underside of the rocks which extend towards the sea in today’s Kalepark/Güzelhisar. This port, which was used until the Ottoman era, is at the intersection of Europe, Asia, and the Middle-East and continues to be an important center of trade. The city, where the sovereignty of Muslims and Byzantines continually changed hands over many years, was the main port for the trade goods sent from Istanbul to be sold to other Muslims especially in the early years of the Abbasids dynasty. The city, which was besieged again and again by the Turks, especially after the 11th century, survived these sieges because of its mighty ramparts, Byzantine support, and the topographic advantages provided by its natural geography. Trabzon experienced its history’s most prosperous time between the years 1204-1261, which is known as the Komnenos Age. The German historian Fallmerayer describes Trabzon's commercial life in those days in the following way: “Convoys from Iran and even from Iraq used to come here. Thus the whole human specitrum was concentrated in Trabzon. The Trabzon Empire was a transit center, an important quarterage, and a crucial point in world trade.” This period came to an end in 1461 by subjugation of the city by Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror who, after conquering Istanbul, wanted to include into his own territory the Trabzon Empire which he saw as an extension of the Byzantine Empire. After this date the Turkish population rapidly increased in Trabzon, which became the Ottoman Empire’s most important seaport by the Black Sea. The city, which experienced a period of more than four hundred years more peacefully relative to the past, underwent Russian occupation for two years during World War I. The occupation ended in 1918. This summary of Trabzon’s approximately four thousand years of history is the best illustration that its people were compelled to show resistance; not only against nature, but also against the ones who wanted to seize the city because of its cosmopolitan importance.  *Built between the years 1250–1260 by Manuel I, who, after the Latin invasion of Istanbul escaped to Trabzon to found a new state, the Hagia Sophia Museum of Trabzon is one of the finest examples of late Byzantine architecture. THE OLDEST CHRONICLER IS THE CITY ITSELF 
Such an old city, which had been the scene for different cultures would have many stories to tell of course. And Trabzon starts telling its stories from the place which at first comes to mind when its name is mentioned, the Sümela Monastery.
The historical edifice located in Trabzon’s Maçka Township is known among local people as the Meryamana (Mother Mary) Monastery. There are many myths about the monastery which is built at an height of 1,150 meters above sea level over the Mela (Black) Mount by the west side of the Panagia (Meryemana/Mother Mary) Creek; but the best known is this: Two Athenians –priests according to some sources- see Mother Mary in their dreams and Mary tells them to build a monastery, the location of the monastery, and how they will go there. These two men, who take the painting which is rumored to have been painted by St. Luke with them, come to Trabzon by sea and build the church. The monastery is thought to have been built between the years 375-395 A.D., but there are also some who argue that it was built in the year 472 A.D. However, some believe that the Trabzon Emperor Alexius Komnenos III (1349-1390), who appears on numerous frescos in the monastery, is the actual builder of the historical edifice. Climbing up to the edifice—for which native and foreign tourists show great enthusiasm--is done by climbing via an arborous footpath. The Hagia Sophia Church of Trabzon, which was built as a monastery and is now in service as the Trabzon Museum is also one of the places in the city which really must be seen. The most important feature of the museum is that it carries traces concerning very different periods. The embellishments found here belong predominantly to the Byzantine and Seljuk periods and, in addition to the stonemasonry and the pillars of the edifice, the motifs inside are also considerably striking. The church leaves an impression on the mind also as it contains many different motifs such as doves and eagles. The Atatürk Kiosk, located in the Soğuksu district, is also an important structure built during the early 20th century. This kiosk, in which Atatürk stayed during his visits to Trabzon between the years 1934-1937, also has historical significance due to the fact that Atatürk wrote part of his legacy here. Today, this four-storey stone building, which was built in 1903, is a museum open to the public. Along with these, the Kaymaklı Monastery (Amenapırgiç Armenian Church), the Kızlar (Panagia Kerameste) Monastery, the Vazelon Monastery, Iskender Pasha Mosque, Gülbahar Hatun Mosque, the Memiş Ağa Mansion in Sürmene, and the Ismail Ağa Mansion in Trabzon are only some of the places worth seeing. 
* Originally named “Panagia Sumela,” the Sümela Monastery, situated at an altitude of 1,150 meters above sea level, is presumed to have been built in the 4th century AD.
A WONDER OF NATURE FROM ITS UPLANDS TO ITS LAKES 
The upland festivities are very special events which makes Trabzon what it is. There can’t be a more ideal setting than the Upland Festivities for distinguishing the people of the city. In these festivities, which continue from the first Sunday of May to the first Sunday of September, the sound of bagpipes rather than kemancha plays the leading role, contrary to what might be expected. In the Upland Festivities, the peerless beauty of nature amalgamates with the euphoria of the music and the people doing the “horon” dance. Any number of “Trabzonite horon teachers” voluntarily accompany anyone who wants to share in this euphoria.
Trabzon is as remarkable for its lakes as much as its uplands. It has many large and small lakes of which the Uzungöl, Balıklı Göl, and Sera Gölü are the main ones. Some of these lakes have been formed as a result of mountain slope failures and some by geological activity. ITS COPPER CRAFT AND TEXTILES ARE ALSO UNIQUE Of the handicrafts particular to Trabzon, copper workmanship comes first. The people of Trabzon, who have been actively exploiting their copper resources since the Ottoman period, have created an important source of revenue by improving themselves in copper crafts. The copper workshops, which can be easily come across in many different areas of the city are remarkably special venues with both their sales stores and their on-site demonstrations of copper workmanship for customers. The other craft which is as important as copper craft in Trabzon is weaving. The local outfits which everyone looks upon with great admiration in the upland festivities are all hand woven. The prices of these fabrics--which can easily be found in many places of Trabzon--are so agreeable in comparison with the uniqueness of their designs. THE TRABZON CUISINE Just like in the other Black Sea cities, the “hamsi” (anchovy), corn flour, and black cabbage constitutes the basis of nourishment also in Trabzon. The cheese called “minzi,” which resembles dry cottage cheese, is eaten at almost every meal. The corn bread, buttered pita topped with cheese, minzi, eggs, and zucchini, and the pita called “cumur” are some of the most well known meals. The breakfasts are made in some regions with a flour soup called “trima” and pieces of oil fried bread. “kuymak,” which is generally eaten at noon hours is among the most popular meals of the region. The “çimdik” (pinch) macaroni, which reminds one of couscous, is also quite popular. Corn, creamed zucchini, black cabbage, and fish soup also hold a special place between the evening meals. The black cabbage “yığma” is also one of the most interesting foods of the region. The “hamsi kaygana” (anchovy omelet), the stuffed and fried anchovy patty which is also called “hamsi kuşu,” pickle, and pickle roasting are preferred during the winter months. Besides these, wild fruits such as the “hamuçera” (wild strawberry), “lifor” (blackberry), “mora” (raspberry), “ahlat” (wild pear), “karayemiş” (a fruit like cherry, but less sweet), and “çakal eriği” (bullace) are the most popular fruits peculiar to the city FOR THOSE INTERESTED… 
Bean Pickle Roasting
Ingredients: Fresh bean pickle, onion, garlic, butter, parsley, salt. Cooking: The onion is chopped up. Butter is melted in a saucepan. The onion is roasted and then fresh bean pickle is added and roasting continues. After the beans are roasted, chopped up garlic and parsley are added and roasting continues for 1-2 minutes more. “Mıhlama” (Kuymak) Ingredients: Cheese (‘mıhlama’ cheese, or cheddar cheese), flour, butter, small quantity of water. Cooking: A little water and flour is added after the cheese is chopped up. On the other side butter is melted in a saucepan on the stove. The prepared mix is poured into the melted butter and cooked until the cheese melts. In some places onions or eggs are also added to “mıhlama.” 
*Also known as Vakfıkebir bread, Trabzon bread, which can be kept for 5 to 15 days without staling in proper storage conditions, has a thick crust, is well–cooked and soft on the inside with large crumb grains due to its long baking period. *Barbecued, fried or steamed… Hamsi (European anchovy), which leaves a different flavor on the palate depending on how it has been cooked, is especially flavorful and abundant during fall and winter months. * Kuymak, made with authentic regional cornmeal, cheese and butter, is known as mıhlama (muhlama), havits or yağlaş in some regions.
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Index
 ETIKETLER:
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trabzon | anchovy | uzungol | sumela-monastery | history-trabzon |